Juan Francisco Fariña — known as JuanFra — farms a small operation in Valle de Güímar, a tiny DO on the eastern coast of Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands. The trade winds off the Atlantic keep the temperatures surprisingly low for a subtropical island, and the vines grow in volcanic soils left behind by Teide, the imposing stratovolcano that dominates the skyline. It's one of the most singular terroirs in Spain.

The grape is Listán Blanco, an ancient white variety that thrives in these mineral-rich soils. JuanFra takes things a step further: this wine spends time under flor, a layer of naturally occurring yeast that forms on top of the wine the same way it does in the production of fino sherry. That contact imparts a nutty, oxidative complexity — toasted almonds, dried citrus peel, volcanic smoke — while the core of the wine retains its brisk, saline freshness.

This is a full-bodied, complex, deeply thought-provoking white. Pour it with aged manchego, fried fish, seafood rice, or octopus. Not for the faint of heart — and absolutely worth it. DO Valle de Güímar, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain. Organic. 2022.

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